Clematis
Growing and Pruning

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1011 N. Woodlawn

Kirkwood, Missouri

63122

314-965-3070

MailSCG@aol.com

When shopping for clematis, look for a plant that is full with many stems.  It may or may not be tall, but the fullness of the plant is what’s important.  If you tip the pot over and gently pull the plant out, the roots should be showing, which represents a mature, strong root system.

Clematis prefer full sun to part shade, but there is room for experimentation.  If you have a spot where you would love to put a clematis but aren’t sure if the exposure is quite right, try it!

Picking a trellis
When choosing your structure, make sure you have supports they can twine around, with a diameter 1/4” or smaller.

Cool roots
Clematis like “cool roots,” which means they do better with some protective covering around the base of the plant.  You can use rocks, groundcovers, like Creeping Jenny, or a thick layer of mulch.  Mulch will not only help keep roots cool, but will help retain moisture — but keep it several inches away from the plant, to avoid the fungal disease clematis wilt. 


Moist, well-drained soil

How can soil be moist and well drained at the same time?  The key here is organic matter.  Amending your hole with compost will help create a texture of soil that is moist, but doesn’t hold water, like a swamp.  For clay soils, consider adding turface, a soil conditioner that resembles kitty litter, and compost.  Make sure the planting hole is big enough to allow water to run off the roots.

Digging the hole
Most herbaceous perennials need only a depth of 12” of amended soil.  Because clematis need to be planted deeper, and we want to force the roots to grow to lower levels than other plants, we may want to dig and amend soils to a depth of 16-18”.  If amending a whole bed isn’t an option, make your hole as wide as you can without disturbing established plants.

 Planting
Water down the hole prior to planting to help flush out air pockets.  Place the crown of the plant around 2” deeper than soil level.  Add the backfill.  Water in again. 

Water
Stick your finger in the soil before you water.  One to two times a week, depending on heat and amount of rain, give the plant a good thorough drink: this means at least 10 to 15 minutes of a medium to weak stream of water coming out of your hose.   Do not walk around your yard sprinkling foliage here and there and think that you have watered.  Foliage does not take in water.  Roots take in water.  In the heat of a St. Louis summer, you may need to do this several times a week.


Fertilizing

According to the American Clematis Society, clematis like low dose fertilizers such as bone meal or an all purpose fertilizer, around 3-12-12.  Most importantly, do fertilize.  Clematis are heavy feeders, requiring food for those big showy flowers.

The pruning groups

Group 1
Generally the early-flowering cultivars. These plants bloom off of old wood. The only time to prune is immediately after they flower, simply containing them to their allotted space and removing any dead wood. Timing is crucial; the plants need to be able to put on new growth for next year’s blooms.

Group 2
Most cultivars fall into this group. They generally bloom off of old and new wood, and they usually have two successions of blooms. The first flush of blooms will come in May or June, and then again in September or August. Prune in early March. A rule of thumb is to take off one half of the previous year’s growth or contain them to their allotted space. Also remove any dead wood. Dead heading the plant after the first flush of blooms can help encourage a strong second bloom.

Group 3
These are generally the later flowering cultivars, which bloom on current year’s shoots. Prune these hard in March. These need to be taken back to the ground.
 

 


 

 

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